I’m a black ocean, leaping and wide, Welling and swelling I bear in the tide.Still I Rise, Maya Angelou
The Fall Winter 2020-21 collection comes from a meditation on the female sensuality, on how women experience and express it.
Creative Director Marianna Rosati took inspiration from the 1968 book Les érotiques du regard , by Marc Attali & Jacques Delfau, a series of seemingly voyeuristic images of women: the seductive fascination of a detail, a small gesture, a certain posture. Med Sod Forstaelse, a documentary of prostitution in Denmark during the early eighties by Krass Clement, as well as the photos of the Chinese sex workers by Zhang Hayer, show women who live boldly and fearlessly their eroticism and their pleasure, radiating a powerful energy, returning other people’s gaze with ease. Their attitude is fierce, they challenge the commonplaces,claiming their right to manifest themselves beyond prejudices and conventions. The freedom of showing who they are without being categorised because of it.
The woman that inspires the collection is not afraid to show her inner desires, free from the expectations of society and from its common sense. She gains possession of herself by deciding what to reveal and what to hide, how to play with her body, and by which rules. A woman whose instinct overcomes rationality.
The collection is nocturnal, suspended between darkness and light, feminine and masculine, consciousness and subconscious. Textures and materials are revised as if they were seen through old lenses, emerging as tales from the past.
Each look involves a contrast: male oversized coats and jackets are combined with cropped volumes and mini dress with deep side slits, tough surfaces alternate with airy transparent fabrics, squared cuts are balanced by refined features, such as light ribbed knitwear and delicate retro inspired lingerie. The lines recall the late eighties/early nineties, but with a minimalist and essential approach. The protagonist of the collection affirms her sensuality by accepting and unveiling all her contradictory innerworlds.
Colours are hazy and opaque, a foggy palette made by neutrals and marked by a bitter black, enlightened only by flashes of pure white and gold. The two key patterns are an optical print shaped by small drops, and the one designed with the artist Klaus Jurgen Schmidt, made by maxi wrinkled stripes.
Accessories play a defining role: the fine silk stockings, the printed patent platform shoes with their signature squared toe, the dramatic wide-brimmed hats, the feminine headbands made by different leather and fabrics, the puffy triangular bags. Unexpected accents that add a sense of mystery to the collection.
Sensuality is not necessarily about a look or about clothing, it’s an attitude, a gesture, it’s about personality and the audacity to stand for it.